On both the streets and the runway, we see trends in luxurious and colorful furs of various animals and textures, 90s pop culture and neon colors and balloon silhouettes, layering puffy coats or top-heavy pieces over skinny pants.
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From Gucci, we see a generous dose of 60's glamour and 80's mod – possibly an echo to the James Franco documentary The Director screened in Paris this January. The film explores the rise of creative director Frida Giannini, whose polarizing 60's floral line launched her to commercial glory in 2004. Pinned as “boyish romanticism” by Giannini, fluffy chubby furs of all textures – from curly teddy bear shearing and goat hair to beaver and mink – were draped over slimming and sleek lines for a balloon-like silhouette.
The models kept it mod with snug peacoats, cat-eye makeup and pastel mini-dresses with knee-high go-go boots. Taking a starring role was The Jackie, a squashy shoulder bag often worn by Jackie Onassis during the decades inspired by the collection. Full of flirty, fondant shades and poppy pastels, the Gucci woman will be wearing a soft palette of baby blue, sage green and mustards this season.
Thanks to Jeremy Scott, fashion’s most evolved connoisseur of junk culture, McD’s reconfigured golden arches into the iconic Moschino logo became a Milan Fashion Week social media staple. That, along with the groan-inciting late entrance of Rita Ora and Katy Perry, made for a drama-filled albeit ingenious and entertaining debut.
For his first collection with Moschino, Scott gave the line a post-modern pop fashion treatment. Described as “a mutant hybrid of Ronald McDonald and Coco Chanel,” he poked fun at the timeless Parisian brand in every way you could imagine, twisting around Chanel iconography, and taking their consumer culture cues of yesteryear (Lego clutches, make way for the McNugget bag!) to an entirely new level. Not only do we find his tongue-in-cheek play on fast fashion and high-street branding quite brilliant, but appreciate the nostalgic nod to the happy-go-lucky 90's. Quite simply put, we’re lovin’ it.
While Roberto Cavalli’s premiere show made a controversial splash with foreboding water and fiery flames, his new little sister line Just Cavalli takes us to a place that’s a bit personal and a little closer to home. Drawn from his native Florence, the focus of this collection was the “the inestimable value of the Florentine Renaissance’s artistic patrimony through the lens of Cavalli’s contemporary creative vision.”
True to his vision, every piece had collaged images of medici statuary and marble stripes reminiscent of the arches in Santa Maria Novella and all sorts of renaissance architecture. Flashes of neon bisecting photo prints in broad brushstrokes modernized the collection, while staying on trend with bulky tunics over skinny pants. Flits of fringe on fur totes add a touch of both flair and luxury.