Get the DeLorean ready - it's about time to take a vacation, but in a retro-futuristic kind of way. This season's ready-to-wear line-up boasts plenty of forward-thinking materials and silhouettes, albeit through the lens of the 70s and 80s. This can be interpreted in a variety of ways, of which we're excited to present to you here in the form of trend report. Here's the top 5 we have for all of you time travelers out there!
It’s time for a sunset disco at the beach, with plenty of sea blues and greens, corals and tints of orange. For Trina Turk, that means experimenting with breezy fabrics and colors in energetic hues of pink and orange for a time when Pop Art was big. Flirty, flared dresses with thick headbands and sunny yellow jackets with plaid suits look straight off the set of That 70s show. Mara Hoffman took a softer turn with relaxed floor-length maxi dresses bearing prints of colorful seagulls and sunrises. Charlotte Ronson also kept things cool this season with all shades of blue, inspired by seaside wear, mesh and scuba in classic feminine tomboy fashion. A perforated neoprene sweater with an organza insert stood out as a major highlight!
We all know that nautical can be overdone. But this season, Lacoste’s Oliveira Baptista has taken the theme in a completely unexpected direction – focusing more so on the textile innovation of yachting and sails, while also bringing in streetwear influences into the mix. It’s a revisiting of the first yachtsmen’s tailoring, particularly the L42 and L36 yachts Lacoste helped design in the 80s. Far from preppy, these threads are sleek, sporty and fast, with football jerseys in sheer knits, neoprene on iconic polos and windbreakers hanging cooly off the waists.
Leading the way for streetwear for the contemporary woman, Donna Karan celebrated the presence of street art with a giant display screen of digital imagery and stunning dresses evoking the essence of Jean-Michel Basquiat and other legendary graffiti artists of the 70s. We loved the subtle use of the obi belt, which we’ve seen on plenty of runways this season, in neutrals reminiscent of the Japanese-inspired costumes from another beloved motif of the 70s – Star Wars: A New Hope. The kimono-like garments and translucent robes reflect the feudal samurai-inspired Jedi elements that George Lucas borrowed from Japanese director Akira Kurosawa’s The Hidden Fortress. Porsche Design takes a similar retro-futuristic route, integrating the simplicity of Japanese minimalism into their jackets, trousers and techwear.
The mermaid silhouette is hot for Spring 2015 with various interpretations from the likes of Porsche, Donna Karan, Lacoste, Vivienne Hu and more. Donna Karan plays with asymmetrical layering with cinched waistlines while Lacoste emulates a simpler, more minimalistic and sleek kind of water gypsy. Porsche keeps a neutral palette while experimenting with shapes. Vivienne Hu, on the other hand, edges it out with leather and snakeskin.
The gowns for this season were like a pastel bouquet, one you might find in an Upper East Side fashion office or a springtime gala. Oscar de la Renta presented gowns in the color of dusty pink carnations and hydrangea, perfectly fit for an up-and-coming debutante. Even the more casual, gingham print separates, harked to an upscale picnic luncheon or an afternoon tea at the garden. Monique Lhullier spared no penny in her use of luxurious silks in iridescent shades of blush and lavender, inspired by the changing colors of the sky at dusk during her recent trip to the Bahamas. She wanted to “instill that sparkle in every piece.” Her innovative fabrics included “liquid satin” which resembles metal when caught in the light, luminous cuffs on a sheer lace blouse and layers of tulle made to reflect an island sunrise. A floor-sweeping sunny yellow gown with a touch of draping at the waist by Carolina Herrera was one of the few most raved about in this line of floral-inspired pastels.